About Tempera

15. The medium of employment for the project will be tempera.

Today, we find paints called tempera, or poster paints, on art store shelves quite commonly. This tempera vulgaris is decidedly not the same as classical tempera, which we will be using here; it is more like bodycolor, or gouache, which is essentially watercolor mixed with a substance such as chalk or diatomaceous earth to make it opaque. This common tempera, found frequently in elementary school art classes, is far enough away from classical tempera that it's a toll call.

Indeed, when speaking of classical tempera we usually say egg tempera. The word tempera itself, according to author Ian Sidaway in the highly commendable reference book Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Art Materials, (a link to this exists on our references list to Amazon so you can buy it) is:

...the word given to the technique whereby pigment is prepared for painting, or "tempered" by mixing with egg yolk and distilled water.

Anyone who's ever tried to clean dried egg yolk off anything knows full well what a durable and sticky emulsion this can be. Tempera gives a thin, hard layer of color that is very durable but is not very flexible; typically period artists painted on a rigid surface, such as wooden panels.

A Bit Of Media History

Tempera was the dominant art medium since the decline of encaustic, which apparently happened around the same time as the fall of the Roman empire (about the 3rd Century AD) and held sway until the development of traditional oil paint in the 15th Century (Vasari seems to credit Jan Van Eyck with discovering it; certainly it seems that he at the very least rediscovered and perfected it). All easel painting done before then was done in egg-based tempera, including all the great and well-known masters of the time.

Making Tempera

While egg tempera is available in tubes pre-made, in order to copy the experience of our medieval cousins as closely as possible, we will be making our own. The general look to be as follows (llustrations excerpted from Sidaway's book):

A basic recipe for tempera emulsion that we might concievably use is as follows:

• 3 parts egg yolk
• 3 parts distilled water
• 1 part linseed oil

Add the linseed oil to the egg yolk a drop at a time, using an eyedropper, and stirring all the time. Once mixed, add the distilled water in the same way, stirring gently until throughly mixed.

A pertinent question here is how much egg to use. One of the points that all the references we've seen make repeatedly is that mixed tempera does not really keep well, or if does is more trouble that it's worth to do, so the recommended amount to make is what one will need at a single session. Sidaway suggests one egg should do the trick, so according to the above recipe, if we'd use one egg yolk, we'd use an equal volume of distilled water, and 1/3rd of that of linseed oil.

Purists hold that to stay to the true one must limit themselves to only yolk and water, but experimentation down the years has proven that the addition of ingredients such as linseed oil, "stand oil" (linseed oil that has been heat treated to polymerize the oil molecules) or varnish can give benefits such as improved workability, flow, or slow drying. During a recent Google search, we were able to find out a small handful of different recipes, so with experience and experimentation, artists can be pretty sure to find an emulsion recipe that works for them.

Care must also be taken in the tools used to prepare the emulsion and keep the chances of contamination at thier minimum. Glass and ceramic vessels are recommended; tools and hands must be scrupulously clean, and metal tools are not recommended for mixing the emulsion.

Preparing the Yolk

Preparing the yolk for use is a simple process but likely not many have been exposed to it. We ourselves recall our mother separating yolk from white by cracking the egg and tipping the contents between the two shell halves. This stage of the process is quite similar.

Once cracked, pour the contents into clean hands. Roll the egg's contents from hand to hand. As you do so, the white will drain off (presumably you have a receptacle under your hands at this point), leaving you in short order with the yolk, alone. Dry this yolk by either rolling it around on your hand, or carefully rolling it onto a paper towel.

At this point comes the time to drain the yolk from its natural container. Hold the yolk carefully by its sac (this is why you want to use absolutely the freshest eggs you can find; not only are fresh eggs more workable, but the yolk sac is strongest when the egg is fresh), puncture it with a scalpel or a craft knife, and drain the contents into a glass jar or dish.

Follow the instructions on whatever recipe you're using to mix in distilled water and whatever oil or varnish you'll be using, and your emulsion will be ready for the pigment.

Preparing the Pigment

Dry pigments are sold as finely ground powders, but a common approach to improve the properties of the resulting tempera is to grind them with a small amount of distilled water to produce a creamy paste.

The paste is ground on a ground glass plate using a ground glass muller, then adding to the emulsion a little at a time.

Once the pigment is successfully mixed with the emulsion, the tempera is ready for use.

By way of final observations, we are still researching exactly how one would go forward from using the mixed tempera. From what we've seen, a little goes a long way, and some colors can be preground and kept for a while, while others should only be mixed on the palette at the time of use. Different recipes require different strategies for storage, and some colors are more powerful than others meaning you'll use more of some pigments and less of others.

Along the way, we've found some interesting web-based references. Check our list of links in the sidebar, and following this is a list of references we've consulted while putting this article together.

Reference Links:

1. Society of Tempera Painters on making tempera
2. Watercolorpainting.com's tempera reference
3. Daniel Smith's tempera making page (includes valuable information on how the dry pigments behave)
4. Some Tempera History (Brandywine Museum Article)
5. More Tempera History (Courtesy VanAken Artist Colors)
6. Scribal Writes #7, Article on Making Tempera

Tags: tempera, making tempera, tempera painting

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Heraldic Achievements in 3D

14. Yes, the Barnet Roll research is proceeding. Not apace, perhaps, but proceeding. We've found out a great deal about tempera, about how to make it and what goes into it, and are beginning to assemble the blazons needed to draw the coats themselves.

We also know now about how vellum and parchment get made. Maybe a little too much, but arts and crafts during medieval times were nasty, brutish, and short. Or something.

Anyway, it had occurred to me that one stop we ought to make is in the matter of heraldic display. There are many misconceptions about what is called what and why and what it all means. While heraldic design within the bounds of the shield (or if you want to be technically correct, the escutcheon) need not necessarily mean anything – looking distinctive is the point here – the froufrou that surrounds the shield do have meanings, and certainly in the Society for Creative Anachronism.

The various parts of the complete heraldic display – also known as the achievement – are awarded according to a hierarchy of dignities, with J. Random SCAdian who hasn't done anything significant yet at the bottom, and the peerage orders – Laurels, Pelicans, Knights and the like – in the lofty heights. Simply put, the more you got, the more you get. There is a gradient progression, and we'll define and get familiar with that in a future article.

For the moment, refer to this article by Torric inn Bjorn (and further updated by Mistress Elizabeth Braidwood and Lord Frederic Badger). It's a very useful and fast introduction to the achievement system, and some terms from it we will use in the discussion to follow.

Achievements in 3-D

The Dame Giuliana Benevoli is a valued and beloved acquaintance of ours (and incidentally the lady of our honored instructor, Ciaran Cluana Ferta). The An Tir Roll of Arms blazons her registered arms as such:

Per chevron sable mullety argent and gules, a sun in splendor Or.

This results in the display you can see illustrated here. When considering the full achievement, we find that she is entitled to quite a lot. Dame Giuliana is a member of the Order of the Laurel, a dignity given for continued excellence in the arts and sciences, and, according to the article referenced above, she is entitled to display a helm, crest, torse, mantling, compartment, motto, and supporters, amongst other things.

Unlike within the bounds of the shield, armigers are allowed a bit more freedom in what they can choose as elements of thier achievement. Of course, the elements must be correct for SCA period, but within that rubric, the sky is kind of the limit.

We don't have a drawing of her achievement available, but we do have a 3-dimensional dramatization, as pictured thus:

 

What we have here is an assemblage of the elements in 3-dimensional relief, which is accomplished in a really strikingly beautiful way. Dame Giuliana has chosen to realize the crest, the helm, the torse and mantling, the compartment, and the motto. All in all, a very charming display.

Let's take some close looks.

Her dexter supporter is a sable unicorn with an Or horn and argent mane (we would say "crined argent"). Here's a closer look at that beast:

 

Her sinister supporter is a heraldic beast called a pantheon. This is a creature with the body of a hind (a red doe deer), a bushy tail as a fox, cloven hooves, and whose body is strewn with stars. No, we don't know why, because of all the heraldic history that was recorded, what the heralds were imbibing whilst working never was marked down.

Anyway, the pantheon:

 

The artist has the number of the pantheon, that seems apparent. Make special note of the wreath of green leaves encircling the beast's neck: Dame Giuliana is entitled to display this as her rank allows her to display a laurel wreath gorging (being displayed about the neck) one of her supporters.

Another element allowed her is the stuff on the top: the helm (that should be obvious), mantling, and a torse which functions to hold the mantling on the helm. Here's a close look at that:

 

Note here the torse. It's a bit like a twisted pair of scarves and is in the two dominant colors of her device – gules (red) and Or (gold). This is also heraldic tradition. The mantling – the streamers– are similarly colored. The sun atop the helm is also important.

This is the crest, and is said to have been a jousting accessory; it's said that it was used in tournaments and to knock a knights crest off his helm (they were designed to break away) was to have scored a point. Quite a few crests, in our experience, recapitulate some element of the device design or, in this case, is the armiger's badge, though that's not a hard and fast rule; your crest can be anything appropriately period.

We like the idea of a demi-maiden for ours. The last part of the display is the compartment, and for this, the artist has really come up with a clever way to do it and t include the actual motto scrolls as well:

 

This ordinary wooden plaque has been charmingly taken to the next level by the addition of a tile mosaic, fleurs-de-lis, and two mottoes on actual curled paper scrolls:

 

Which is a wonderfully witty way of making the scroll of the graphic display concrete and real. What the whole point of this is is to give some sort of an idea as to why heraldic display is fun and cool and how it contributes to the overall feeling and atmosphere of the medieval mien we of the SCA claim.

Whether or not you care to go creative or have any interest in obtaining arms at all, isn't this just plain neat? The passion the creator has for her life in the SCA comes through in productions like this – we find it exciting, and we're pretty sure we've never seen anything quite like it. Good heraldry contributes to the game we all play as SCA members.

Tags: heraldry, SCA heraldry, heraldic display